Not-So-Haute Couture

The sloper's not dead, she's just restin' . The sloper has been laid aside temporarily whilst I attempt to sew something that actually fits. I've got my Unique Jacket partially cut out of some dark blue linen blend. This version will have no collar, no pockets and will be about 5" longer so as to cover my curvaceous booty. Me wearing my last version of this jacket, at my dd's wedding holding my neice.

Sloper comparison: I started out with size 18W using the D-cup front and the only thing that hasn't changed is the neckline curve. The bodice sloper is on about the 6th draft. It looks very, very weird. See that side seam? Yes, that zig-zaggy side seam with the big ole' dart? When it's all sewed up, that side seam is actually perpendicular to the floor. And that waistline dart? That sits at such an odd angle? When it's all sewed up, that dart is perpendicular to the floor. Look at that armscye! How am I ever going to shape a sleeve to fit in there? What if, once this sloper is finished, I can't figure out how to use it as a fitting tool? If I can't figure that out I'm back where I started. I'm scared.

Dh and his brother are off to Phoenix, Arizona for 4 days of golf and baseball. The Diamondbacks (boo!) are playing the Giants (yay!) and dh & dbil will be there to cheer their team for all 3 games of the series. Bye-bye, boys! I get to say home and sew (yay!)

Gosh, my sister blogger Rusty Bobbin has the greatest links: Fashion-Incubator: Welt pocket construction

Been blog housekeeping--went back through & re-posted pictures so as to get rid of those red Xs. Got the past coupla months done; will finish the rest v. soon. Also been working on the bodice sloper. This to me is not a particularly pleasant task. I'm trying to have a good attitude about it. It's actually looking pretty good at this point and I hope that this exercise will eliminate alot of fitting issues on future projects. I tried to take pictures of the Unique pants to show the forward side seam, but working by myself was futile. I didn't get any that clearly showed the seam problem but in the pics I did get I was surprised to see some more fitting issues--my high left hip and what looked like mild 'smiles' is really quite a bit of bagginess at the back of the thighs. They still fit better than any RTW, but I want to get this pair just perfect. I'm gonna let Unique handle it though. I'll send 'em the pics & measurements, they can re-draf...

I found this link on Manolo's shoe blog : How to Fold a Shirt

I am sick. At first I thought it was allergies run amok. I am sluggish. Dh said I looked like a wilted flower and made me go to bed early. So no sewing got done.

Give me spirit fingers dammit!!

I'm going to make some baby clothes. Because I need another project--yes, I do. My grandson Kai (short for Malachi) is due in September, and even though dd and dsil have been given approximately 1 ton of baby clothes, I have reserved the right to make his coming-home-from-the-hospital layette. It shall be presented at her 2nd baby shower, which will take place in August, so I better get started. I googled "cute baby boy clothes" for inspiration--all the boy clothes look pretty much the same, but a few on this site stood out: One of a Kind Kid . I don't want to forget SewBaby or The Snap Source , either. I already have Kwik Sew's Sewing for Baby . Perhaps now is the time to decide on some labels from here or here ? Ebay has some cute baby cotton knits, too.

--no, I mean really --standing on the Word of God: Welcome To In-Souls .

I decided yesterday to email Unique about the fit of the slacks. The legs gently twist inward on the way down so that at my feet the inseam has veered backward and the sideseam has veered forward. Unique replied, apologizing for the problem letting me know they'd redraft. They asked for a couple of measurements and digital photos, if possible. I can do that. In the meantime I'll probably tweak the existing pattern to see if I can get those seams straight.

Look at this! Emma One Sock puts together capsules! capsules EmmaOneSock.com Discount Designer Fabrics This will be great when I'm ready to start my planned wardrobe.

The Unique slacks are finished. They are a very wearable muslin and I'm very happy about that. These are very simple--back zipper/no pockets, so they went together fast! I used construction techniques outlined in Sewing Secrets from the Fashion Industry . I've only ever sewed a couple of pairs of pants but I'm looking forward to sewing more pairs that actually fit me. The last pair I tried--Purrection Perfect Trousers--absolutely did not fit. But the Unique pattern was custom drafted and it shows in the near-perfect fit. As pleased as I am with this pattern, it is a muslin and there are a couple of things that need to be changed: Fit: The side seams don't hang straight--they veer forward. and there are small 'smiles' in the back. Style: The zipper is in the back and I don't like it there, so I'm going to close the back seam and make a mock-fly front a la Pants for Real People . The legs are tapered but I'd like to be able to make slacks with wider l...

Don't forget this site when it's time to buy lining: Dollar Fabric

Our sweet daughers & sons-in-law surprised with a vow-renewal ceremony to celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary. Shortly thereafter, our oldest daughter received her bachelor's degree summa cum laude. Pictures of these momentous events can be found in the gallery .

I'm So Totally Sorry...

Slopermaking took a break while I cut out a pair of Unique Slacks. This is the pattern that came free with my bodyskan . The muslin of these slacks fit real well and I need a dependable pants pattern that can be quickly cut and sewn. The fabric is a medium/heavy weight black polyester with a woven pinstripe that washed beautifully. Dare I hope to end up with a nice-fitting pair of black slacks? If they turn out well I have some bottom weight stretch twill that would make a cute pair of cropped pants. The ole wardrobe could use some warm weather clothes. Two well-fitting cotton knit mock turtlenecks have become summer t-shirts. Yes, the necklines were re-designed (lopped off), raw edges turned under, stabilized with wash-away wonder tape and top-stitched. They are now wide scoop-neck tops. A little too wide, actually, because I'm on constant bra-strap watch when I wear them. Other than that, and the fact that the shoulders fall back (big surprise), they fit so well for a dart...

I traced left front and back bodice patterns onto tissue yesterday. For some reason I thought tracing would take a long time to do but it went very quickly. I've been wondering how to actually use the sloper once I have it and a bit of surfing turned up this helpful article . Just having the customized back and shoulder lines is going to help a lot. I moved my blog from my own your-site webspace back to Blogger . Overall it was accomplished with 2 clicks of the mouse but sure enough, there has been a glitch: All the images uploaded using hello didn't transfer. This is fixable; worst case the pictures can be re-uploaded. In the meantime the irritating and all too familiar red X s mark the spots.

Spent some time this weekend working on the my fitting shell/sloper. I referenced FFRP and the Threads recent armhole fitting article. The Threads article was limited to armscye fitting; FFRP covers fitting the entire pattern. But I need armscye help, so...... Some differences between the two references: Regarding what size to choose: FFRP has you choosing your size based on high bust if your full bust is more than so many inches bigger, which mine is. My high bust is 40" and my full bust is 47". This difference indicates my cup size, which is an outrageous DDD. The reasoning for going by high bust measurement is that the neck and shoulders will be more likely to fit, and a full bust alteration will enlarge the full bust area. Threads doesn't address differences between high and full bust--says to choose your size based on full bust and make sure the bust fits before fitting the armscye. I went with the FFRP recommendation because it makes sense to me and because I had th...

Shapely shirt turned out sort of wearable. The cotton/lycra blend is too stiff and thick so it's a bit buggy to wear (as in, "it bugs me"--this was my little sister's mantra from the time she was about 5 years old. She had some cute clothes she wouldn't wear because they bugged her. She is still unbelieveably picky about how she feels in the clothes she wears. I understand. I'm the same way.) Also, because it has no drape darts are way too pointy. And there's some stand-up collar/shoulder thing happening here, too. If the fabric weren't so stiff it'd be falling down my back and REALLY bugging me. shapely shirt I sewed enough of the click 'n sew blouse together to know that it's (another) wadder. In order to get this fit thing straightened out once and for all, I'm starting from square one. I've got a fitting shell pattern and Fit for Real People and I'm going to follow all of the steps to make a fitting shell.

....and hanging on the back of the bedroom door. I'm afraid to try it on. I'm afraid it won't be wearable. It looks cute, though. Now that shapley shirt is finished I am going to direct my sewing energy to wardrobe planning. I must decide on some basic patterns for tops and bottoms. I need: Top/blouse for woven fabric (currently working on this) Top/T-shirt for knit fabric (have tried a couple, but don't yet have a 'tried & true' pattern; want to use for twin sets also--Threads has an article on how to make the topper using the same t-shirt pattern) Slacks pattern (My Unique slacks pattern toile fits well. After I work on the woven shirt pattern this is the one I'll work on next. I want to nail down the fit and try different leg widths, zipper location, etc.) Skirt pattern (I do have a 'tried & true' Vogue skirt that would probably work for this) Jacket pattern (This one is nailed down--my Unique jacket pattern) The idea is to have 1 perfect...

I wish I had one of these: SSI Shredding Demonstrations

This weekend my dd will be helping me to create a new Fanny Dinky dress form. She's named Fanny after Fanny Brice, whose story is told in the movie Funny Girl . The first words in that movie are (spoken by Fanny to her reflection in a mirror) "Hello, gorgeous". This is why my dress form is named Fanny--I can walk by her and say, "Hello, gorgeous". I like doing that. I want a new dress form because, thanks to Pilates workouts, my hips are more even! I thought they were hopelessly uneven due to my scoliosis, but the Pilates training really helped, and very quickly, too. DD made Mrs. Dinky I using brown craft tape (the kind you wet with water to make it sticky) so she's an experienced dress form maker. The current Mrs. Dinky's edges are a little rough so we're going to smooth them out this time. More info on making a paper tape dress form can be found here and here . You can also make your own dress form using duct tape .