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Princess Seam Progress

McCall's 4780 (the pattern that is to be my standard for woven blouses) is on its 3rd basted fitting. Each basted fitting was preceded by at least 2 pinned paper fittings. I actually started this princess-seamed blouse odessy with a different (Plus size) pattern; it took me 2 basted fittings of that one to realize I should start with a Misses size. Naturally the first pattern didn't come small enough. So, although I'm on the 3rd basted fitting of M4780, I've actually been slogging along this muddy and rutted princess-seam road for about 5 fittings. Still nothing wearable and my $1/yd Wally World stash is about gone.

But progress is being made on M4780:

Basted fitting No. 1 (from Misses size 14 w/full bust alteration): Too small. Just plain too small. I got excited to work on an actual Misses size and overdid it. Decided to re-trace a size 18.

Basted fitting No. 2 (from Misses size 18 w/full bust alteration): Better. But there are some fba oddities. The size 18 is for a 40" bust. My high bust is 40" (which is maybe why that size 14 was too small--ya think?). My full bust is 47"--a 7" difference. Divided by 2 pattern pieces = a 3 1/2" fba, which is what I did. And it was too much. I folded out about an inch of that. Recut the fabric. Rebaste. Re-try-on. Slightly too tight in the bust. Must've folded out too much. Also too tight in the armscye and I had to fold out about 3/4" across the upper back. (So much for not having to eventually alter the sleeve cap.) I've transferred these changes to the paper pattern, re-cut and am almost ready for that 3rd basted finish. Maybe it'll fit, but I'm not holding my breath.

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